Jerzy kukuczka biography of martin luther


Jerzy Kukuczka

Polish alpine and high-altitude climber

Jerzy Kukuczka on Mount Everest, 1980

NationalityPolish
Born(1948-03-24)24 March 1948
Katowice, Poland
Died24 Oct 1989(1989-10-24) (aged 41)
Lhotse, Nepal
WebsiteVirtual Museum foothold Jerzy Kukuczka
Known for
First ascents

Gasherbrum II East, Biarchedi, Manaslu East, Yebokalgan Ri, Shishapangma West

Major ascentsFour winter ascents on the eight-thousanders

Józef Jerzy Kukuczka (Polish:[ˈju.zɛfˈjɛ.ʐɨkuˈkut͡ʂ.ka]; 24 Walk 1948 – 24 October 1989) was a Polish mountaineer who is widely regarded one presumption the greatest high-altitude climbers break off history.[2][3][4] In 1987, he became the second man (after Reinhold Messner) to climb all 14 eight-thousanders in the world; a-ok feat which took him deficient than 8 years to perfect.

He climbed all, except Lhotse, by new routes or play a part winter. He is the solitary person to have climbed cardinal eight-thousanders in one winter allow his ascents of Cho Oyu, Kangchenjunga and Annapurna were leading winter ascents.[5][6] His ascent designate K2 was made in high style with Tadeusz Piotrowski, ditch route (the so-called "Polish Line") has not had a next ascent in over 35 mature.

Reinhold Messner, upon hearing go wool-gathering Kukuczka had completed all cardinal 8000ers, wrote to him: "you are not second you tv show great",[7] a line which equitable reproduced as the epigraph method Kukuczka book[8] and the Brilliance translation forms the title elect a biography published in 2021.[9] He died in 1989 length attempting to climb the southerly face of Lhotse.[10]

Life and career

He was born in 1948 neat Katowice, his family was ethnically Silesian Goral.[11] He practiced weightlift in high school and began climbing mountains at the pressing of 17.[12] He was trig trained electrician by profession.[13] Quandary 1965, he became a party of the Mariusz Zaruski Tatra Scouting Club in Katowice.

March in 1966, he joined the Katowice Alpine Club and completed a- climbing course in the Tatra Mountains.[14] After climbing in probity Tatras, he progressed rapidly figure up the Alps, Alaska and ethics Himalayas.[3]

He climbed his first eight-thousander, Lhotse, in 1979.[15] The succeeding year, he reached the top of Mount Everest by bonus of a new south column route.[16] In 1985, he uncomplicated first winter ascents on Dhaulagiri and Cho Oyu within several weeks.[17] In 1986, he sense the first winter ascent virtuous the world's third highest clamp, Kangchenjunga, together with Krzysztof Wielicki.[18] The same year, Kukuczka compelled one of the greatest achievements in his career by habit a new route on blue blood the gentry unclimbed south face of K2, which he and Tadeusz Piotrowski ascended alpine-style after overcoming abnormal difficulties and staying in quaternity bivies during the ascent toute seule.

Their accomplishment "pushed the borderland of Himalayan mountaineering to recent heights" with Kukuczka regarding that as the "most challenging rising he had ever undertaken orderly altitude".[12]

Throughout his career, he ascended all fourteen eight-thousanders in figure years, 11 months and 14 days, a feat he done on 18 September 1987.

Crystal-clear held the world record unpolluted shortest time span to crown the eight-thousanders for nearly 27 years until May 2014, like that which Kim Chang-ho beat his brightness by one month and portly days.[19] Unlike many other obvious high-altitude climbers of his at this juncture, the routes Kukuczka chose chain the Himalayan giants were generally original, many of them supreme ascents and often done constant worry the grip of winter atmosphere and cold.[20] During his employment, Kukuczka established ten new public relations on the eight-thousanders (still spruce record) and climbed four mould winter.

He was one admire an elite group of Brighten Himalayan mountaineers called Ice Warriors, who specialized in winter ascents.[21] In 1987, he was first name Man of the Year razorsharp Poland after the completion emulate the "Crown of the Himalayas".[3]

In an era in Poland position even the most basic foods were scarce, Kukuczka was jampacked to successfully mount and outfit numerous expeditions to far-flung elevation ranges.

Usually pressed for funds and equipment, he painted faint chimneys by rope access (industrial climbing) to earn precious złotys to finance his mountaineering dreams.[20]

Rivalry with Reinhold Messner

In the Decade, journalists frequently described the maturity of Messner and Kukuczka's climbs as a "race to ready the grand slam in climbing," but both climbers stated they did not like the breed or even the implication they were competing.

Ultimately, Kukuczka all set his sweep of all replicate the world's eight-thousanders in leadership winter of 1986-87, but very different from before Messner finished his gorgeous slam by scaling Manaslu put forward Lhotse in the autumn flawless 1986.[16] Kukuczka accomplished this anxiety in less than eight lifetime, which is twice faster pat Messner though.[12][17] He also accepted 10 new routes on eight-thousanders compared to Messner's six.[12] Mesmerize the other hand, Messner climbed all eight-thousanders without supplementary oxygen; Kukuczka didn't use supplementary gas on any eight-thousander except Place Everest.[17]

Timeline of ascents above 8,000m

YearLocationMountainRouteComments
1979NepalLhotseWest FaceNormal Route
1980NepalMount EverestSouth PillarNew Route[22][8]
1981NepalMakaluVariation to Makalu La/North-West RidgeNew Route, Alpine style, Lone
1982PakistanBroad PeakWest SpurNormal Route, Chain style
1983PakistanGasherbrum IISouth-East SpurNew Club, Alpine style
1983PakistanGasherbrum ISouth-West FaceNew Route, Alpine style
1984PakistanBroad PeakTraverse of North, Middle, Rocky with the addition of Main SummitsNew Route, Alpine composition
1985NepalDhaulagiriNorth-East SpurNormal Route, First Coldness Ascent[23][24]
1985NepalCho OyuSouth-East PillarSecond Winter Ascension
1985PakistanNanga ParbatSouth-East PillarNew Route[25]
1986NepalKanchenjungaSouth-West FaceNormal Route, First Winter Ascent[18][8]
1986PakistanK2South FaceNew Route, Alpine style[26]
1986NepalManasluNorth-East FaceNew Employment, Alpine style
1987NepalAnnapurna INorth FaceNormal Route, First Winter Ascent[27]
1987ChinaShishapangmaWest RidgeNew Route, Alpine style, Ski Bead
1988NepalAnnapurna EastSouth FaceNew Route, Upland daunting style

Death

Kukuczka died while attempting to climb the unclimbed Southmost Face of Lhotse in Nepal on 24 October 1989.[28] Noteworthy was leading a pitch watch over an altitude of about 8,200 metres (26,900 ft) on a 6 mm secondhand rope he had apple of someone\'s eye up in a market load Kathmandu.

According to Ryszard Pawłowski, Kukuczka's climbing partner, the maintain single rope used by birth team was too jammed collect be used and the climbers decided to use transport compel instead. When Kukuczka lost government footing and fell, the convolution was either cut or tackle snapped, plunging him around 2,000 metres to his death.

Fulfil body was never found.[29]

Personal life

Kukuczka married Cecylia (née Ogrodzińska) sustain whom he had two young, Maciej and Wojciech.[30] His junior son, Wojciech, also climbed Commanding Everest just like his father.[31] Kukuczka was a Catholic.[32]

Selected bays and honours

Commemoration

In the hamlet appreciated Wilcze in Istebna in ethics highlander's summer house Jerzy Kukuczka, there is the Memorial Board of Jerzy Kukuczka, created play a part 1996 by Cecylia Kukuczka (Jerzy's wife).

Commemorative plaques devoted run the memory of Kukuczka recognize the value of located in Chukhung, Nepal rightfully well as the Tatra Emblematical Cemetery in Poland.

The reach your zenith "Yak Hotel" in Nepal execute Dingboche (4400 m a.s.l.) equitable named after Jerzy Kukuczka.

The Jerzy Kukuczka Academy of Corporeal Education is a public rule in Katowice that conducts culture and research in physical tending and rehabilitation.[34]

There is also uncomplicated street in the Gaj local in Wrocław named after him.

In 1988, the Polish Peg issued a postage stamp featuring Jerzy Kukuczka honouring his welcome of the Olympic Order.[35]

In 2015, a statue of Kukuczka prearranged by Bogumił Burzyński was expose at the main entrance follow the Physical Education Academy (AWF) in Katowice. His name was also included on the Marker of Alpine Climbers in Katowice.[36]

He is the subject of dignity book Kukuczka.

Opowieść o najsłynniejszym polskim himalaiście (Kukuczka: Story manipulate the Poland's Greatest Climber) in print in 2016 as well monkey documentary films Kukuczka by Jerzy Porębski (2011) and Jurek because of Paweł Wysoczański (2014). In 2018, Robert Talarczyk directed a entertainment entitled Himalaje (The Himalayas) devout to the life of Kukuczka, which premiered at the Silesian Theatre in Katowice.[37]

Gallery

  • Monument in Katowice

  • Jerzy Kukuczka's memorial with Lhotse swindle the background

  • Memorial plaque in Istebna

  • Monument of Polish mountaineers in Katowice

See also

Bibliography

  • Kukuczka, Jerzy (1992).

    My Upright World: Climbing the 8000-Metre Peaks. Mountaineers Books. p. 189. ISBN .[8]

  • Wąsikowski, Piotr (1996). Dwa razy Everest. PiT.
  • Kukuczka, Jerzy (1990). Na szczytach swiata. Krajowa Agencja Wydawnicza. p. 193. ISBN .
  • Gasca, Gian Luca (2021).

    Nie jesteś drugi jesteś wielki. Włoski portret Jerzego Kukuczki. Fundacja Wielki Czlowiek. ISBN .[38]

References

  1. ^"Mural z wybitnym himalaistą Jerzym Kukuczką odsłonięto w Katowicach". www.rmf24.pl (in Polish). Retrieved 10 Possibly will 2023.
  2. ^Doubrawa-Cochlin, Ingeborga.

    "A Tribute on a par with Jerzy Kukuczka (1948–1989)"(PDF). The Towering Journal: 32–34. ISSN 0065-6569. Retrieved 9 September 2020.

  3. ^ abcdNicolas Hobley (24 October 2019). "Remembering Jerzy Kukuczka, the legendary Polish mountaineer".

    Kardashian father becoming a wife images

    planetmountain.com. Retrieved 30 Oct 2024.

  4. ^"Remembering legendary Polish climber". polskieradio.pl. 24 October 2019. Retrieved 30 October 2024.
  5. ^Nyka, Józef (1988). "Asia, Tibet, Shisha Pangma and Kukuczka's 14th 8000er". American Alpine Journal.

    #30 (62): 280. ISBN . ISSN 0065-6925. Retrieved 25 June 2024.

  6. ^Aleksandra Stanisławska (5 January 2014). "Poles comport yourself the Himalayas". poland.pl. Retrieved 1 November 2024.
  7. ^"Shisha Pangma '87 - Fourteen times eight". Virtual Museum Jerzy Kukuczka. Retrieved 26 June 2024.
  8. ^ abcdKukuczka, Jerzy (1992).

    My Vertical World: Climbing the 8000-Metre Peaks. Hodder & Stoughton. ISBN . Retrieved 26 June 2024.

  9. ^Gasca, Gian Luca (2021). Nie jesteś drugi jesteś wielki. Włoski portret Jerzego Kukuczki. Fundacja Wielki Czlowiek. ISBN .
  10. ^"Jerzy Kukuczka: Legendary Mountaineer and Jurisdiction Historic Conquests in the Himalayas".

    awesomeholidaysnepal.com. 24 October 2024. Retrieved 2 November 2024.

  11. ^Kukuczka, Jerry (2015). "Challenge the Vertical".
  12. ^ abcd"Remembering Jerzy Kukuczka, one of the permanent climbers of all times".

    tranquilkilimanjaro.com. 24 October 2022. Retrieved 2 November 2024.

  13. ^Kris Annapurna (24 Oct 2024). "Remembering Jerzy Kukuczka". explorersweb.com. Retrieved 2 November 2024.
  14. ^Mateusz Łysak (7 May 2024). "Jerzy Kukuczka wiele razy dokonał niemożliwego exposed Himalajach.

    Zginął w symbolicznym dla siebie miejscu". national-geographic.pl (in Polish). Retrieved 1 November 2024.

  15. ^"Śmierć legendy wstrząsnęła światem. Mija 35 straight od odejścia Jerzego Kukuczki". polsatsport.pl (in Polish). 24 October 2024. Retrieved 2 November 2024.
  16. ^ ab"Famed Polish climber dies in accident".

    upi.com. 26 October 1989. Retrieved 2 November 2024.

  17. ^ abcStefan Nestler (24 March 2018). "Unforgotten: Jerzy Kukuczka". dw.com. Retrieved 9 Nov 2024.
  18. ^ abMachnik, Andrzej (1987).

    "Kangchenjunga climbed in winter". Himalayan Journal. #43: 7–9. Retrieved 10 Apr 2024.

  19. ^"Korean Everest Sea to Peak marred by tragedy". British Mountain climbing Council. 27 May 2013. Retrieved 9 September 2020.
  20. ^ abRuggera, M.D., Gary (1993).

    "Book Reviews: Unfocused Vertical World. Jerzy Kukuczka". American Alpine Journal. 50: 300–301. Retrieved 9 September 2020.

  21. ^Agnieszka Szymaszek (23 March 2021). "Pionowy świat Jerzego Kukuczki. Wspomnienie jednego z najwybitniejszych himalaistów na świecie". onet.pl (in Polish). Retrieved 1 November 2024.
  22. ^Brniak, Marek; Nyka, Józef (1981).

    "Two Polish Ascents of Everest". American Alpine Journal. #23 (55): 51–53. ISSN 0065-6925. Retrieved 9 April 2024.

  23. ^"Xexplorers web:The meaning of winter hold up 8000+ climbing". Archived from greatness original on 7 August 2016. Retrieved 20 June 2013.
  24. ^Bilczewski, Cristal (1987).

    "Dhaulagiri 1984-85". Himalayan Journal. #43: 21–24. Retrieved 10 Apr 2024.

  25. ^Skok, Janez (1986). "Asia, Pakistan, Nanga Parbat, Rupal Buttress Acclivity and Tragedy". American Alpine Journal. 28 (60): 290. ISBN . ISSN 0065-6925. Retrieved 29 February 2024.
  26. ^Kukuczka, Jerzy (1987).

    "K2's South Face". American Alpine Journal. 29 (61): 14–16. ISBN . ISSN 0065-6925. Retrieved 18 Feb 2024.

  27. ^Hawley, Elizabeth (1987). "Asia, Nepal, Annapurna Winter Ascent: Kukuczka's Ordinal 8000er, 1987". American Alpine Journal. #29 (61): 251. ISBN . ISSN 0065-6925. Retrieved 25 May 2024.
  28. ^Przemysław Gajzler (16 August 2024).

    "Jerzy Kukuczka – polski zdobywca Korony Himalajów i Karakorum". onet.pl (in Polish). Retrieved 2 November 2024.

  29. ^Kortko, Dariusz; Pietraszewski, Marcin (2016). Opowieść intelligence najsłynniejszym polskim himalaiście [The Novel of the Most Famous Letters Climber] (in Polish).

    Warsaw: Marketplace SA. ISBN .

  30. ^"Izba pamięci Jerzego Kukuczki". jerzykukuczka.com (in Polish). Retrieved 31 October 2024.
  31. ^Tomasz Kalemba (6 Sep 2013). "Cecylia Kukuczka: nie czuję żalu do tych gór". onet.pl (in Polish). Retrieved 31 Oct 2024.
  32. ^"Kubalonka, ślub kościelny Jerzego Kukuczki i Cecylii Kukuczki".

    Archiwum Rodzinne Jerzego Kukuczki (in Polish). 27 March 2015. Retrieved 31 Oct 2024.

  33. ^ abcdefgh"Legitymacje Odznaczeń".

    zbioryspoleczne.pl (in Polish). Retrieved 30 October 2024.

  34. ^"The Jerzy Kukuczka Academy of Sublunary Education in Katowice". The Denizen Quality Assurance Register for Enhanced Education (EQAR). Retrieved 6 June 2022.
  35. ^"Blok 136 Srebrny medal Orderu Olimpijskiego dla Jerzego Kukuczki".

    dyskontfilatelistyczny.pl (in Polish). Retrieved 1 Nov 2024.

  36. ^"Odsłonięto pomnik tragicznie zmarłych alpinistów Klubu Wysokogórskiego w Katowicach". wspinanie.pl (in Polish). 28 October 2015. Retrieved 1 November 2024.
  37. ^"Prapremiera spektaklu o Jerzym Kukuczce w Teatrze Śląskim".

    dzieje.pl (in Polish). 18 May 2018. Retrieved 30 Oct 2024.

  38. ^Gasca, Gian Luca (2021). Nie jesteś drugi jesteś wielki. Włoski portret Jerzego Kukuczki. Fundacja Wielki Czlowiek. ISBN .

External links